Where we're heading next:
Home Sweet Home
Quote of the Day
Peanut, "Wow, mom, now we can say we've been to all 50 states! What are we gonna do next?"
Our kids have never been interested in playing Cowboys and Indians and we certainly wouldn’t have encouraged it if they had. (We try to channel that kind of energy into Star Wars play, and I could do an entire post on why.) But now Little Man has a new bow with 3 suction cup arrows and he is quite at home. I’d forgotten how much skill is involved in archery and he’s just about mastered his aim. He and Doodle have been running around playing Native Americans in the hotels at night. “Quick, Doodle, go get those bad guys! They’re trying to kill our buffalo!” Doodle will run and attack the curtains while Little Man takes aim at the window. I suppose it’s all part of the processing.
I’m compelled to note that one night in Sedona, I took Peanut out for a couple of hours and when I got back, Grandma had quite a story to tell. Little Man got mad at Doodle and called her a F---ing White Person, something he clearly picked up from the kids on the Navajo reservation. She ignored it, and we’re all crossing our fingers that he doesn’t call someone that at school!
The United States is truly so diverse, both physically and culturally, but the Southwest in particular is stunningly unique and special. Digging around in the dirt and finding itsy-bitsy pieces of Quartz, is a thrill one can only experience, not learn from a book. Seeing Native Americans cultivate anything in such barren land makes one appreciate the Garden of Eden we’re fortunate enough to live in.
Even within the desert there are obvious differences you can only experience by driving day after day. New Mexico is littered with windmills. Colorado has yurts everywhere. Utah has tiny L.D.S. churches with clean bathrooms, even where it seems no one could possibly live much less worship. I’ve always been taken with the miniature chapels dotting the highways and the trains that seem to run for miles, where you can't see the engine or the caboose.
Peanut was particularly taken with the hogans in Arizona. They’re circular shaped houses with a single door that always faces East. It’s like a modern tee pee and is usually the first and final dwelling. When the family is financially able, they build a Western style house and use the hogan as a church or gathering place. But when you get really old or sick you’re actually moved back into the original hogan. When your clock says time is up, your family makes a nice comfy bed on the ground outside the door with a little awning to protect you from the elements. It is here, out in nature where you can finally rest in peace. We were told that the Navajo believe the good goes with you when you die and the bad is left behind. Therefore, should someone die inside a dwelling they’d have to burn it down. No need asking bad spirits to linger!
Favorite parts of the Southwest Road Trip:
Peanut, "Pretty much Slide Rock, White Sands and the Dude Ranch. I liked looking at the pretty desert and everything on the drive, I'd say, seeing all the things you never get to see, like the forest with all the Joshua trees by the Grand Canyon."
Little Man, "At the Dude Ranch, when I saw Loop Rawlins do rope tricks. He was really nice. And driving around by the Grand Canyon."
Doodle, "Pink babies and pink princesses."
Grandma, "The Grand Canyon Sky Walk and I loved seeing the kids react to a real hail storm. I just liked being able to go. I'm tickled silly that I was even invited and I like the idea that we went from one different part of the desert to another different part."
With my antibiotic eye drops doing their job, we decided to continue with our plans. We wanted to leave really early for the Grand Canyon today and be home in time to swim all afternoon. As we have become acutely aware, rarely do things go as planned with 3 little ones.
I forgot to mention that Peanut lost one of her teeth in Sedona which was a very exciting event indeed. The event got more exciting, however, when we realized I forgot the tooth in the hotel (which had been given to me for safe-keeping). I told Peanut, "Look the Tooth Fairy and I have a really good line of communication; I'll let her know I blew it with the tooth, and I'm sure she'll leave something under your pillow anyway." She twinkled back an understanding glance. Then I asked her if it was okay for us to wait until Las Vegas because her dad would really want to be a part of this. She said, "She'd rather not, but sure."
When I tucked her in she had a little note in her hand. I asked her about it and she quickly hid it and said, "Shh! This is for you to read tonight!" Well, Tomcat and I ran down to the casino gift shop (and to try our luck with the 25 cent slots) and we found her a little Las Vegas license plate with her name on it. Back in the room, I slid it under her pillow and quietly removed the note. Here's what it said, "Dear Tooth Fairy, I lost my tooth! Oh no! Will I ever find it? Would you mind if I got a present anyway? I even don't care if the present is a penny! Love, Peanut".
Clearly, I underestimated the Lost Tooth excitement, as she was up at 4am thrilled with her present. We got her back to bed and by 4:40am she was up again, this time with Little Man in tow. We ended up separating them and they finally got back to sleep. They slept until 9am, but Doodle had Grandma up at 5:00am, bless her. Furthermore, I had promised the kids Room Service at least once on this road trip and was reminded that I still hadn't done it. Dang! Now we were doing it in over-the-top Vegas?! We had a feast to say the least and it was enjoyed by all. But we didn't get out the door until after 10:30am at which time we were reminded that we'd promised Doodle she could say good-bye to Tay-Tay back at the In-Laws. So we popped by there on our way out of town, had a very nice quickie good-bye, and were finally on our way!
Who goes to the West Rim anyway? No one I know. The South Rim is what everyone thinks of when they think of the Grand Canyon. The North Rim is where they go when they want less traffic, or they're up in Utah and don't want to drive 5 hours around to get to the South Rim. When I found out that the West Rim is only a couple of hours from Vegas, I was so there. I'd seen pictures of the newly built Skywalk and have wanted to walk it ever since. Surprisingly, it's not actually part of the National Park, but run by the Hualapai tribe. It was fantastic and worth every penny!
You know that roller-coaster thrill? It was like that. We each had to wear hospital slippers over our shoes to keep the glass floor pristine. The kids loved this. In fact, they were digging the entire thing; they even talked us all into lying down on the bridge! What an optical illusion -- as you got down, the canyon seemed to get farther and farther away and as you got up, it came up with you! We eagerly bought the overly priced photos they took, but since all belongings must be left in a locker prior to entering, these were the only pictures we were going to get.
There were Hualapai dancers, drummers, food, easy but rewarding hikes and a genuine friendly vibe from everyone we met. There's something to say for getting there long after the tour buses have gone home.
Another bright spot was the drive back to Vegas. The light was perfect for pictures of the giant Joshua trees in Joshua National Park, giddily moving along the bumpy, curvy 20 mile stretch of gravel road before hitting the highway. We were all queasy by the time we got back to the hotel.
Slide Rock has to be one of my favorite childhood and young adult memories. Thirty years ago it was just a stop by the side of the road kind of place. I distinctly remember all the nudists lying about on the red rocks sunning themselves and me being told not to stare. Twenty years ago they had a paved parking lot and a fee. This year, with the kids, they had bathrooms and a gift shop! The nudists were missing, although that could have something to do with the temperature.
When the rain stopped, we went to check it out. I brought all of our bathing suits, jean shorts and old tennis shoes on the off chance the kids would actually slide. Grandma and I were absolutely convinced they'd never get in. Our car said it was 42 degrees outside and the water was much colder than that. Little Man was dead set on going though. When we got there two teenage boys were doing their best to get in, but failing miserably. Their bellies were bright red from cold and their dad was on the rocks with a nice camera waiting patiently for them to get the courage to do more than just sit in a little pool of water. He looked at Little Man who couldn't get his clothes off fast enough and said, "Go show them how it's done!"
My only rule about going down the chute was that there were to be no tears. I explained very clearly that this would be the coldest thing they'd ever done and that they might have trouble breathing. I also said I was absolutely positive they would love it. But no crying!
Shock of the world they actually did it! I went down with Little Man first and just kept telling him to keep his head up. A couple of times I lost him (these rocks are slippery as hell!) but was able to get a hold of him again. I nearly went under once after a waterfall, but he managed to keep his head up. He was freezing...and raring to go again! Peanut's turn. About 3 feet down the chute I heard her gasp for air and flex -- shock -- so I said, "C'mon Peanut, smile! This is fun!" It snapped her out of it and she started giggling like crazy. She was holding on to me so tightly that we never separated, but I had a harder time keeping my own head above the water. She scrambled up the rocks to Grandma who had her dried and changed in under a minute. Grandma said, "You're NUTS! Tomcat never would have done this!" But she knows how fun it is, because she's been down this same chute, many times herself. She's a thrill-seaker at heart; don't let her fool you!
Doodle was screaming to go and I just knew this was a horrific idea. I was already frozen beyond words, physically tired, and she was so small and would be so slippery in my arms. But for any of you who have 3 kids, you know what it's like talking logic to the baby. They just have to figure things out on their own. So, I took her to the beginning of the chute, sat down (all the while saying, "You sure?") and just as I was beginning to slide, I thought, "You've got to be kidding me! You're really doing this?", she started to scream to get out. Hallelujah! I immediately lodged my foot and 2 teenagers came and scooped her out of my arms. She started taking off full force toward Grandma which was just as terrifying (wet rocks). I managed the uneasy task of backing out of the chute (thank you again big teenagers) and catching her before she fell into the safety of Grandma's arms.
Little Man was thrilled because he finally got to go again. At this point (my 3rd+ time down), I could barely breathe or speak. It reminded me of when I joined the Polar Brrrr Club by jumping from a boat into the glacier water at Tracy Arm Fjord in Alaska. It was the first time I became acutely aware that you actually feel warm when you're starting to freeze. Well, would you believe I forgot a change of clothes for myself, and new underwear for Little Man? I suffered through, but there's just no way he'd put on jeans without underwear, so he went bare-assed the .3 miles to our car!
Here's the worst part though. The entire way back to our car, Doodle sent me a litany of judgments, "My daddy said I can't go in that water. It's too cold. I'm too little. You shouldn't have let me do that. My daddy won't let you do that. It's not allowed." Whatever, Doodle! It was AWESOME and I loved the opportunity for the kids to overcome something...anything. This is the stuff confidence is made of.
Tonight Peanut was writing in her journal while the other two were in the tub. When they got out I told her to jump in for a quick wash. A few minutes later she finally got in and started to complain, "Hey, this is cold!" pause pause pause "Well, at least it isn't as cold as Slide Rock!"
The original plan was to stay in Escalante, then drive into Bryce Canyon for a couple of days. The trouble was my gut said not to do it. Scenic Route 12 is a very winding road from Monument Valley and then a lot of miles a-r-o-u-n-d the Grand Canyon to get back to Sedona, AZ. Grandma and I would certainly have had a Thelma & Louise experience, but I could hear the complaints from the kids already: Peanut, "I'm hot." Little Man; "I feel like I'm going to throw up." Doodle, "I don't TARE about dese wed wocks!"
After talking with a nurse friend of mine who works on the Navajo reservation, we changed our plans. First of all she offered to let us stay with her in Point Defiance, AZ and second of all she recommended a canyon I'd never been to: Canyon de Chelly (pronounced Canyon de Shay). My mind was at ease and I knew this was a much better route for us.
Lucky for us, they had a big room at the Navajo-run lodge in Canyon de Chelly. It's important to plan a vacation day from your vacation and this was it for us. We were all ready for bed. When Grandma filled the tub with desert water, Doodle gave her a look like, "There's no way I'm getting in that." Have you had a bath in yellow water? Or red water? It's a mental challenge to consider yourself clean.
We ate breakfast at their cafeteria which was an absolute riot. When I was a kid, Furrs Cafeteria was a fancy outing for us and I always chose red Jello cubes with whipped cream on top. Watching the kids, I remembered how fun it was to have a tray and choose your own food no matter how mix-matched! The kids chose fry bread, strawberries, grapes, Jello, cottage cheese, cereal and rice. I made them each have a few bites of my chicken, too.
A couple of Navajo men told us to get into the canyon right away. The winds were coming! Already they were blowing at 25mph and the 50mph would be here soon. We went to the gift shop first and that was a monumental mistake. This was the best gift shop we'd been in since Santa Fe -- beautiful, interesting items and excellent quality. We love buying straight from the manufacturers, too!
A couple of hours later (okaaay, I bought a lot at the gift shop), we realized we better hurry so we loaded the car and headed to the South Rim Drive. Oh my GOSH! I have NEVER seen wind like this. At the first lookout point my car door almost blew off -- literally. I got it closed then asked Grandma to get a picture of me when I opened it again. (A fleeting regret entered my mind -- why didn't I purchase car insurance from Hertz?) The kids were awed and terrified in this wind. It could have gone either way, but I was so excited that they couldn't help but enjoy it. Grandma had just told them a great story from when she was Doodle's age. She was living in Dutch Harbor, AK and the winds carried her away until a native teenage boy caught her and brought her back to her dad. Let's just say we didn't even allow Doodle out of the car!
Canyon de Chelly appealed to me so much because it's not teeming with tourists, there are great hikes and easy to see ruins and Navajos actually still inhabit the canyon. It felt real and alive and I was loving it! If only Tomcat were here. He would have had his Blackberry out finding the answers to all of our questions. He's a need to know NOW kind of person whereas I'm content to just wonder. We'll just have to come back. Preferably without the wind.
I've been meaning to mention the snot factor as it's been a real issue on this road trip. I seem to be the only one not regularly congested or sneezing. Blowing our noses has been a reminder of the places we've been -- black dirt in the Kleenex there, red dirt in the Kleenex here. You can't underestimate the fun of this traveling with little kids.
We each brought about 3 sets of clothes, except Doodle who feels the need to change clothes several times a day even while traveling. We just cycle through, doing a load or two of laundry every few nights. Last night Grandma and I were up so late doing Durango-Silverton Train laundry that it was a real challenge getting out of bed in the morning to leave Colorado.
I'll add that Spray 'n' Wash may be bad for the environment, but it works magic getting the environment out of our clothes. I'd do a commercial for them if only they'd ask. Hey, I did do a commercial once 15 years ago. Well, an infomercial. It was for cheesecake, which I love. Tomcat and I had Amaretto Cheesecake for our wedding and the baker asked me to do a commercial for them. Crazy, right?
A long time ago a friend of mine took me to a great Navajo restaurant in Bluff, Utah. It was in a dark house in the middle of nowhere but the food was amazing and spicy as hell. I was on a mission to find it and savor whatever they put in front of me once again. Off we went, leaving the lush green mountainous Colorado behind. Hello Utah!
On our way we stopped at Four Corners and were shocked to find that it's a real destination now, with an entry fee and everything. We could hear Navajo spoken by the Native Americans selling their wares and we wandered around with snow cones and fry bread. There aren't a lot of places you can buy a snack and say, "Hey, we're in Arizona" then turn and walk a few hundred feet and say, "Hey, now we're in New Mexico" and so on. It's really fun. Actually you have to work hard to make it fun because it's so bloody hot, but we managed to do it.
Bluff, UT isn't exactly a normal sort of place. (I'm taking a leap that your idea of normal is in cahoots with my idea of normal.) Our car really needed gas and up the road we found a slab of concrete with 2 ancient pumps and a barred up station. Surprisingly, it seemed to be working (a taped sign on the pump read: Pay first. 10 gallons = $41.50 and so on), but there was no one around. Directly next door was a building with a little walk-up window. I went over and immediately the window popped open with a panicked face that said, "She's not there, but if you tell me how much, I'll get you the gas." I said, "Oh, well do you take credit cards?" She looked really nervous and I was very curious what was going on behind the window when she said, "Sure. Just tell me how much and she can do it when she gets back. I don't really do the gas or the money."
I told her I'd take 10 gallons at $41.50 and then I asked her about my Navajo restaurant. She goes, "It ain't here anymore. The Sunbonnet. Closed down." DANG! So I asked if there was any place we could eat and she considered for what seemed a long time and finally replied, "Well, there's the place a mile up the road....or here." Stunned, I said, "What's here?" "Well, it's sort of like a cafe." Sure enough the sign on the front of the building read Dairy Cafe and we all slugged our way through the 90+ heat into the cool room, which really was an okay place with a few okay people inside.
The face through the window turned out to be the nervous, very kind daughter of the owner, the above she who apparently "did the gas and money". Mother was quite a specimen: very tall, very thin, around 70 give or take 10 years (smoking and the desert make it tough to judge), gray thinning hair, piercing blue eyes, 6 coats of stage make-up and a deformed hand which she waved around and around our table without one of my kids making a single comment...yay! We ordered ham & cheese sandwiches, drinks and an order of fries. They all showed up in little wax paper pockets, grilled on rye bread with mayo and mustard. The kids wouldn't touch it.
Doodle had to pee so Mother said, "Well, everyone get up! Line up now and I'll unlock the door. I have to come with you." I was certain she had a shotgun slung around her back so we all did as she said, and she marched us outside, around back with the stray dogs to a toilet room. Very strange indeed, but effective. We all peed even though Doodle was the only one that knew she needed to go.
Some other customers came in wanting to see rugs and we realized this cafe was also a Trading Post type of place. She sells native crafts in yet another side room, securely locked. Fumbling through at least 50 keys hanging from her belt, Mother opened the shop for them, mumbling the entire time to herself. "I'd like it better if you'd actually buy a rug." Grandma and I left there thinking these were what Prairie People looked like that went crazy from the wind.
We quite enjoyed the nutty visit, and Mother did send us off with a wonderful nugget of information: see Goosenecks. "It's only 4 miles out of your way and no one goes there." How could I resist? Now, I say to you, "Go there." Pictures don't do it justice. Driving along through miles of colored sand and scrub brush, you'd never know it's out there. What a gem.
Grandma had never been to Monument Valley before and I'd never actually entered the park as the view from the highway is impressive enough. Nothing can prepare you for the sheer grandeur of these monuments. Not books. Not movies. Not my testimony. This is one of those places. You need to watch other people in awe, seeing the same thing you are. The dirt must be tasted so you can verify that it's actually nothing like paprika. And I suspect this valley needs to be seen in winter as well as spring but I can't speak to that.
This was supposed to be a highlight for Peanut and I. We were going to paint the desert at some point and I was sure it'd be Monument Valley. Unfortunately, sweltering in the oppressive 92 degrees, Grandma and I turned around to a whimpering Peanut and found her wearing her fleece of all things! Her fever was back and we'd already committed to the Loop Drive...miles and miles of bumpy, red dirt roads and magnificent views from every possible angle.
Phoenix is a nasty sprawl of condos and golf courses so we rented a car and drove down to Tucson where the beautiful desert begins. Nothing can beat standing in the shadows of a 150 year old Saguaro Cactus. We're at the White Stallion Ranch and I can't wait to come back here in a couple of years when Doodle is 5. You have to be 5 years old to ride the horses, but there's still plenty to do if you're a tot. Peanut, Little Man and I had two morning rides, one with a cook-out breakfast. There are more birds here than I can keep track of and little rubber horses that poop goo in the gift shop.
This will come as no surprise to anyone with little boys, but between the pooping horse toy and the real horse endowments, the potty mouth conversation potential is endless here at the ranch. Check out the quote of the day for today!
Peanut started to crumple yesterday morning with a 101 fever. Poor baby. I anticipated the occasional break-downs, and came prepared with thermometer and some meds. She had a wild sleep with horse and critter dreams. I know this first hand since I (didn't) sleep beside her all night. Hopefully it'll wear off before it turns into something more significant.
Hey! I got to witness a most spectacular sight at my riding. A woman's cowboy hat flew off her head and spooked her horse which sent her flying into the air for what seemed like minutes. She was on a big gorgeous black Draft Horse and it literally turned sideways into my "lane". Good old Yankee bucked but I managed to stop her and back out of the way. We were all sitting there agape letting flies into our mouths. It was a stunning display to say the least. The poor woman was an experienced rider, too. She's out and about today in a wheelchair with no serious damage. The kids were pretty shaken up about it so we wrote her a get well card and took her some tulips and chocolate. That's how I found out there's a Safeway out here in the middle of nowhere! And a Starbucks inside to boot!
Little Man got to stay up late last night and wrangle with Loop Rawlins. It was a specialty show with lots of lassos and gun flingin' tricks. He got back to the room wired as hell and had to show me all his new cowboy tricks, like flipping his cowboy hat over and catching it. I guess he was the other star of the show, being the only 5.5 year old boy there. Grandma said he was a perfect prop!
Arizona Dirt Sample.Sedona, Arizona.
